Supermaxx 3000 (Blue Edition) Mod

Supermaxx 3000: Crayola/PVC Barreled

The Supermaxx 3000 isn't quite as bad as most people make it out to be, unless compared with the Larami SSupermaxx Extreme 2500 (Yellow Edition.) But then again, that what they usually are comparing it to, anyway... This mod will make much better barrels for the Supermaxx 3000, and this will cause its range to be increased.

Materials:

- Screwdriver (Phillips)

- Screwdriver (Small Flathead)

- Hot Glue Gun

- Eight Crayola Barrels

- Eight 4-5" barrels of 1/2" PVC pipe

- Handsaw

- Handfile/Dremel

To begin, you need to unscrew the two halves, obviously. Start with the pump handle so that you can unscrew the two main halves. Now, once you have the two halves unscrewed, pull them STRAIGHT apart. There is a metal rod going straight through both halves, and it takes a little bit of extra effort to get it to slide out one of the halves that first time you open it.

Once the halves are open, take a VERY close look at the valve assembly, and barrel rotator assembly, and the trigger assembly. The hardest part of this mod is getting it all back together.

Once you've taken a good look at it, unscrew the screw holding the white valve and air chamber down, and pull it out. The barrel assembly, trigger rod, pump tube, and pump casing are all attached, so just leave them there, for now. Now, take your small flathead screwdriver, and a small hammer or something and carefully tap out the edges all the way around the circular orange piece in the front center of the barrel assembly. USe the screwdriver like a chisel to crack the plastic all the way around the circle.

Now, pry out the plastic circle you just snapped out. You will see a Phillip's head screw inside. Unscrew this. Now, you can remove the orange piece that is holding the barrels down. Now, take a pair of pliers or your fingers (some are glued down better than others) and pull out all eight barrels. They are glued into a 1/2" or so sleeve of the same color at their base, and most of them should come right out with your fingers or a pair of pliers. Now, turn over the whole barrel assembly, barrels removed, and find the six or so holes with screws in them that are holding down the blue piece to the barrel assembly's base. Unscrew those and pull the blue part of the assembly off so that you have nothing but the barrel assembly's base and the sleeves that the barrels used to fit into.

Now, take your saw and cut off all of those barrel sleeves flush with the base. Using a file or a dremel, smooth out any excess plastic on the base so that it is relatively smooth. Now, take your screwdriver (phillips) and unscrew the screw holding the barrel assembly onto the valve and air casing. DO NOT lose the spring or the other black parts that come off with the screw. They are a PAIN to rig up a replacement for (I know...I had to replace the spring with one that was too wide for the disc to hold it on...I had to cut apart a cardboard folder to make the disc bigger around.) Now that the barrel assembly's base is relatively smooth, with nothing on it, glue your eight crayola barrels on it over the holes where you cut the barrel sleeves off. Glue the thinner end down to the base (the darts fit into the wider end) and do not let any hot glue get into the holes the air enters the barrels from. If you get some glue in there, clean it out by spinning the eraser end of a pencil in the hole.

Now, take your PVC barrels, and glue them with their flattest end down over each of the crayola barrels. Don't worry about them being perfectly aligned. When you put the blue part of the barrel assembly back on, it will hold them all in extremely-close-to-perfect alignment. When the PVC barrels have dried on over the crayola barrels and you have all the barrel holes in the base clear of hot glue, screw the valve assembly back onto the barrel assembly's base, not forgetting the spring, disc, and other black plastic pieces in the mechanism.

Now, screw the blue piece over the PVC pipe onto the barrel assembly base. Now screw the final capping piece of the barrel assembly on over that. Throw away the plstic piece you chiseled out with your flathead screwdriver. It is a pain to take off again if you need to re-open the gun, so just leave it off. Makes it a little lighter, too.

Now, put everything back together, exactly the way it was when opened, but with an improved barrel system. Don't forget to put the metal rod in the hold it was in, with the spring underneath the black plastic piece on it.

Now, when you put the two halves back together, make sure that the metal rod slides into its assigned hole BEFORE you start inserting screws.

Once it's all closed up, put the pumping handle back on, making sure the screw and its sleeve go straight through the hold in the plunger shaft, so that when you pump the gun, the plunger will move with the handle.

The range should be fairly dramatically increased on account of the crayola barrels and the extended barrel length.