The Maverick: Basic Modifications
- Small Screwdriver (Phillips)
- Hot Glue Gun
- Foam (Backer Rod OR Tubing)
- Nerf N-Strike Maverick
there’s one thing that must be understood. There are a few very delicate
parts of the Maverick. I bought two for a reason, as I have already done something
to one that unless my epoxy successfully puts the piece back together, will become scrap parts. Be VERY careful when modding this gun. What may seem like it should be cut to get out of the way should
most definitely NOT be cut. What may seem like it is not needed on the shell
should most definitely BE on the shell. Be very careful. For those inexperienced at modifying, do not worry. This is still an easy modification that can be done
by anyone. Just be careful, and follow the instructions EXACTLY. On to the mod:
three screws in the grey and yellow slider on the top back end of the gun. Keep
these three screws separate from the others in the shell, as they are NOT the same size as the rest of the screws. Now, remove the top half of the slider. Don’t take the
bottom half of the slider off. Let it stay underneath the shell, so the springs
that are attached to it stay where they are. If they slide off anyway, don’t
worry about it. Now, unscrew the main shell of the gun. Save all the screws,
as usual, and take a careful look at where everything is, especially at the rotation system just in front of the trigger.
turret from the shell. There should be a fairly large gray piece on each end
of the turret that are the arms that the revolver pops out the side on. Look
at the end with the larger piece on it. It will be the end opposite the business
end of the barrels. See the orange hexagonal impression on the piece in the center
of the back of the turret? Cutting around that will NOT help you open up the
turret. DON’T do it. I am
attempting to epoxy it back together so that I can have two working mavericks. If it doesn’t work, then it is scrap parts.
DO NOT cut around that. There is a much easier way to open it up. Turn to the business end of the turret, and find the screws around the circle of barrels. Unscrew all of them, and then grip the entire front piece of the turret. Make sure your palm is over the end of the turret, so when you pull the front of the turret off, the orange
piece and the grey rotating arm are held where they are (so they don’t fly everywhere).
No, carefully, pull, and the turret’s front piece should come loose. Continue
pulling, and the orange piece on the metal rod should come off the metal rod. Now, the turret is open. You needed to
get that orange piece on the end of the metal rod off so you could open the turret.
Now that it
is open, you will see some barrel stubs inside the back end of the turret, and you will see the full lengths of the barrels
in the front end of the turret. Also in the end with the barrel stubs, you will
see all of the restrictors and barrel stems and such lying around loose in the turret.
Remove all of these. Now, you need to take your foam backer rod, and fill
in a bunch of space around the barrel stubs. Fill it in to about 3/4”-1”
above the barrel stubs, but make sure that you leave spaces for all of the barrels to fit down through the foam to the barrel
stubs. Without the restrictors in the turret, before the foam, there was a huge
gap between the barrel stubs that used to be filled by the restrictors. If the
foam was not added, the air could go all over the place inside the turret when fired, rather than firing the darts. The Foam will keep the air going in the right direction, so the darts can fire, and now they will fire
farther due to the removed restrictors.
the turret. Make sure that you put the orange piece back onto the end of the
metal rod. Also, don’t forget to screw the front of the turret back on. Now, put the turret back in the shell, and make sure that the orange hexagonal indentation
at the back of the turret is connected to the hexagonal stub on the end of the rotator assembly. If these were not connected, the shell would not be easy to close (as they are supposed to connect...) and the turret would not be able to rotate. Now,
make sure that you have the two gray swinging arms in their correct slots in the shell.
Now, make sure that the long spring with rings on either end is connected to the metal rod coming out of the slider. This spring is what pulls the slider back forward after you cock the plunger back. Lastly, while you’re there, make sure the plunger spring is still on the plunger,
the trigger catch mechanism is all in the right place (with all springs) and make especially sure that the metal rod in the
slider is IN FRONT of the catch piece on the plunger. The metal rod is the piece
that pulls the plunger back, and if it is not in front of the catch of the plunger, it will not pull the plunger back.
the shell top onto the other half, very carefully, and screw it back on. Make
sure that the metal slider rod goes through the corresponding slot in the shell. Now,
slip the top half of the slider over the metal rod, and seat it onto the shell. Screw
it back on as well. Now, pull the trigger a few times to make sure that the turret
rotator is working. If it is, go ahead and load and test the gun. It should have at least ten or so feet added onto its range. Enjoy!
This mod should not do anything to decrease the guns rate of fire. This
is definitely a good thing. This pistol has the fastest Rate of Fire ever seen
in a Nerf pistol. There is NOT a single other Nerf pistol with six shots, that
you can pull the trigger on as fast as you can cock each one. I can get all six
shots off in about four seconds. Have fun!