Make your own free website on
The Den of Foam
Splitfire - Dual-brassed
Home | News | Black Knights Clanpage | Articles | Small Arms | Medium Arms | Large Arms | Non-Nerf Weapons | Ammunition | Modifications | Homemades | Nerf Forums | Nerf Links | Link To D.O.F.



   - Small Screwdriver (Phillips)

   - Hot Glue (and gun)

   - Handsaw

   - Electrical Tape (optional, but keep it handy)

   - 9/16” brass tubing (I use 9/16”, if your darts fit 17/32” better, then use it)

   - Needle-nose pliers

   - Nerf Splitfire


The Method:


First, unscrew it all; you know the drill.  When you get it open, look at where everything is, blah, blah, blah, we know the drill, right?  Wrong.  Make absolutely certain you take a look at the trigger assembly to figure out just how it works; that is the last thing you want to screw up.  Anyway, moving on, once you get it open, put the trigger and its spring in a very safe place.  Especially the spring, as it was prone to roll and flip all over the place.  It was like it wanted to get lost or something...


Anyway, pull out the pump and plug up the overpressure release valve in the end opposite the handle, with hot glue.  For those of you who don’t know what that is, it’s the small hole in the center of the end of the pump shaft, opposite the handle.  It lets air out when the pressure gets “too high”.  It will add a lot of pressure to your Splitfire, which will add a lot of range to your Splitfire.


Next, setting the pump aside with the trigger and its spring, take the orange, freaky-looking barrel assembly, with all those weird orange things sticking out every-which-way. Ignore them, and cut straight across the barrel assembly, right where it gets smaller (as you move away from the end that connects with the pump.)  Once you’re all the way through on both sides, set aside the barrel piece and concentrate on the other piece that still has the pump attached.  Using your pliers (others have used dremels, drills, etc, but pliers worked fine for me) pull out the restrictors in the orange area.  All extra plastic in there needs to go.  Don’t go to far back though; you do not want to start trying to rip out parts of the valves.


Once all the restrictor-type plastic is removed, get out your 9/16” brass pipe.  Cut two lengths of approximately 6”, and clear at least one end of each as best as you possibly can of any rough stuff.  I used my dremel for that.  Taking your hot glue gun, carefully put a decently thick bead of hot glue around the edge of the plastic, inside the piece you just cleared, and seat the end of one of your barrels on the hot glue.  Holding this steady (you might want to get some help to hold this completely steady during this next part) put a thick bead of hot glue around the outside of the brass barrel, at the join between the brass and the plastic.  Hold the barrel completely straight, blowing on it at all times; you’re trying to cool it as quickly as possible.  Once it has cooled sufficiently, put another thick bead around the base of your barrel.  Repeat cooling, holding the barrel straight, and then apply a third bead of hot glue all the way around.  Once this one has sufficiently cooled, the barrel should be pretty much secure, and since you were holding it straight the whole time (or should have been) it should be quite straight.  Do the same for the other brass barrel, and once you have finished the whole attaching process again, the barrels should not only be quite straight and firmly attached, but they should be lined up with each other as well.


Now, take the double-barreled orange piece that you cut off the front earlier.  Slide it onto the two barrels, and hot glue it as far down on the barrels as you can. When I glued mine, it ended up about 1/2” away from where it had been before it was cut off, because of the massive bulk of hot glue holding the barrels on.  That is okay.  In fact, having the plastic a little closer to the ends of the brass barrels will help keep the ends of the brass from getting out of alignment.  Now, take some electrical tape and wrap it around the hot-glued area where the barrels (both brass and plastic) are attached. The whole bulky join should be wrapped, pretty much.  This will not only help it hold, but it will look better than a big bulbous mound of hot glue in your Splitfire (the shell is transparent, remember..?)


Once it is glued and taped in place on the bottom end, put a thick bead of glue all the way around the brass barrels in the space between them and the plastic barrels they’re sticking out of, one at a time, and hold the brass in the exact center (as close as possible; just eye it) of the plastic barrel.  Just try to make a space between the brass and the plastic that is even all the way around.  This will hold the barrels straight as well.  Do this for both barrels.


Once the hot glue has dried on all areas of the barrel assembly, re-insert the plunger into the shaft, and place the whole assembly into the shell.  It probably won’t fit.  I not only had to remove some plastic on the inside of both halves of the shells, but I had to cut off the entire front piece that protrudes out past the place where the pump enters the shell.  It’s okay; just get rid of whatever is in the way in the front end.


Now, slide the trigger mechanism back through the two reddish valve stems coming out of the back of the pump assembly, and put the trigger’s hole at its top back over the cylinder sticking out of the shell.  Now, reattach the trigger spring to the trigger (first) and then slip it over the post it goes on.  Screw the shell back together (checking to make sure the pump is turned with the handle pointing down) and then you’re all set!  It should take between eight and twelve pumps now, and should easily exceed sixty feet (longest I ever got mine to go was 85’ and 78’ (the two barrels fired simultaneously) with ten pumps.  Enjoy!